It all starts with a wire

La Lutte

April, 2023

Making your first bra? Heres where to start…

I love my underwired bras, but it wasn’t always the case. If you have trouble getting a bra to fit, you’re not alone. Research has shown that around 80% of us are wearing the wrong size bra, in honesty I’m sure it’s higher than that.

From wires that dig in at the side, bands that ride up while you wear them and straps falling off your shoulders, the number of issues you can have from a ready-to-wear bra are endless.

So how can you ensure you get the best fit to your own made bra? Getting the band fitting well with the correct size and wire style is a great foundation.

Step 1 - Making a breast root trace

We are all unique and so it goes without saying that no two breast root trace will be either, so you need to trace out yours before you can begin. This can be a bit tricky, so if you have someone that can help with this first step that would be great. If not, using a mirror and getting all your supplies ready first will really help.

What you’ll need:

A blank piece of A4 paper
Pen or pencil
Flexible ruler / wire / rolled-up aluminium foil
Printed underwire charts – links below

Without your bra on, raise the arm of the same breast that you are tracing first.
With your other arm, hold one end of your ruler between your breasts, at the point where the breast tissue meets the chest wall.

With your raised arm, keeping your elbow up, bring your hand down and mold the ruler to follow the line where the breast tissue meets the chest wall all the way around to your underarm.

If your breast tissue is pendulous or not self-supporting, you may find it easier to get an accurate trace by leaning forward so your breast tissue moves away from your body.

This is called the Inframammary Fold or Crease, you will see it referred to by both and shortened to IMF or IMC. Be sure to get the ruler matching the shape of your IMF as closely as possible, making sure to note when it starts and ends.

Mark Left or Right onto the blank piece of paper to indicate the side you have just traced. Then, being careful not to change the shape of your ruler, draw around the inside curve with a pen or pencil.

Mark the point where your breast tissue finishes under your arm as U ‘Underarm’ and the other point where your breast tissue met the middle of your chest as CF ‘Centre Front’.

Now repeat this process on the other side. It’s important to trace both sides as your breasts may be considerably different in sizes or shapes.

Step 2 - Finding your wire

Now you’ve got your traces, it’s time to find the wire size and style that is the closest match.

Wires come in a variety of styles to reflect the wide range of body shapes. Finding your wire style and size might take several attempts, don’t be disheartened.

Focus on the shape of the wire. Is your trace narrow with a vertical side? Wide with a shorter side? Flatter along the base? The wires to the right are all the same size, but different styles. See how the arms are different heights and they have different width and profiles.

We stock a range of wire styles to suit your shape. PDF wire charts of each style can be found below, click on the links below. It’s important to print at 100%, and check the scale on the paper measures correctly.

Now compare your traces to the printed wire charts to find the best fit in both style and size. You can do this either using you flexible ruler or by holding your trace paper and chart together up to the light.

Most pattern designers build in a small amount of wire spring at the underarm, about 1.5cm, to help create support and lift. The wire shape on the chart should be a little narrower at the underarm than your trace to allow for this spring.

Both LilyPaDesigns and Bra Makers Supply include wire spring. If you already have a pattern that does not have wire spring included, simply pick the wire that matches your trace without the spring.

Once you have a wire style that matches your trace, picking a pattern that has been designed to use that wire style will give you the best chance of a good fit.

As you build your skills in bra making you will become more confident in adjusting other patterns to fit your wire style.

A good trick to do before you go ahead and purchase wires, is to print out the chart for the style you have picked and stick it to some card. Cut out the inner curve of the wire size you think looks closest and hold it up to your IMF, remember that it should fit nicely along the curve at the centre and along the base, but should feel snug at the underarm as your not able to add the spring to the piece of card.

Step 3 - Purchasing your first bra supplies

Ready to begin? We recommend you make a fitting band first. This is essentially an underwired bra without the cups. below are the supplies you’ll need to get you started on your fitting band and your first bra.

pattern – choose a pattern that has clear easy to follow instructions and recommends your chosen wire. There are so many great pattern designers that cater for the home sewer, and some even offer free patterns. You’ll need the frame and back band pattern pieces for your fitting band.

underwires / set – If your confident in your size add a pair to your cart, but if your not sure, we sell a set of three underwires in bracketed sizes so you can get the one you want and then ones either side as well.
fitting band kit – these have everything you need to make up to 3 fitting bands, so you can get your best fit before cutting into your beautiful lace and tulle.
bra kit – everything you need to make your final wearable bra, these include the fabrics, elastics and findings to make one bra.

Step 4 - Making a fitting band

Making a fitting band

Why is a fitting band important? Like making a toile for a dress, a fitting band allows you to get the foundation right before cutting into that beautiful lace.

Summary

Let’s just go over the key points:

Get all your tools ready before you start, and a friend is always helpful.
Label your trace so you know which side is which later
Concentrate on getting the shape right, then look at size.
There are so many wire shapes out there, print out as many wire charts as you can to find your best fit.
Finally, don’t feel embarrassed, we all look totally silly standing naked in front of a mirror with our arms up, but just imagine all those wonderfully fitting bras you’re going to make!